June-October 2021

1. 屏東縣鄉土DNA (Pingtung County Hometown DNA) 3

The Chinese text below was taken from "Pingtung County Hometown DNA" 屏東縣鄉土 DNA.  The Chinese was written under the direction of the Pingtung County Government, and the English was written/translated by me.  This book was published by Jade Mountain 玉山社 in 2008.

This book was written by and for the use of local teachers.  It presents units of study with regard to local history and local products, with a curriculum for grades 1-2, 3-4, 5-6 and 7-8.  I'll be excerpting from the 7-8 grade curriculum for each of these entries.

There are nine units in this book.  This entry is the third.

恆春古城

Hengchun's Ancient City (1)

一 , 自然地理 One: Physical Geography

1. 恆春的特有種生物 Hengchun's Endemic Species

恆春半島擁有豐富多變的地形 , 因此不僅擁有特有的植物生態 , 如特有的熱帶植物林和低海拔闊葉樹林 , 也提供了良好的棲息環境 , 孕育出多樣化的動物 , 根據調查 , 鳥類二百二十種 , 蝴蝶約二百一十五種 , 爬蟲類約四十三種 , 各種昆蟲數量也相當多 . The Hengchun Peninsula has a rich and varied terrain.  Because of this it has a unique plant ecology, with distinctive tropical forests and broad-leaf forests at lower elevations.  This is a favorable habitat that gives rise to a diverse array of animals.  According to a survey [it's home to] 220 types of bird, 215 types of butterfly, 43 types of reptile and many, many types of insect. (2)

二 , 歷史背景 Historical Background

1. 恆春建城背景 Background Behind the Building of Hengchun's Old City

牡丹社事件 (附錄1) , 日軍自社寮登陸 , 隨後紮營準備屯田久駐 , 顯露侵台野心 , 但日軍因戰及疾病死傷 (附錄2) 加以各國詰責 , 難特久戰 .  英美唯恐戰爭影響經濟利益 , 出面調停 , 清廷則命沈葆楨統籌台灣海防事務 .  當時 , 清廷海防尚弱 , 內憂外患 (附錄3) , 於是接受英美調停 , 清廷賠款五十萬兩 , 承認日本征台為保民義舉 , 亦默琉球為日本藩屬 .  事件後 , 清庭意識到日本為大患 , 逐派沈葆楨來台統籌台灣海防 (附錄4) , 重視恆春 , 設縣建城 , 開山撫番 , 移民寶邊 (附錄5) .  先後十九任知縣的施政重點 , 大體依據沈葆楨 , 丁日昌及劉銘傳所立之四原則 (附錄6) 建設 . The Mudan Incident (Appendix 1) [occurred] when the Japanese army landed in the area, and attempted to set up a permanent base of operations here.  This [action] revealed their plan to annex Taiwan, [and for this reason] they were condemned by many nations.  They suffered greatly from disease, and also suffered many casualties (Appendix 2).  The Japanese had difficulty fighting a long term engagement.  

Worried that the military conflict would affect their economic interests in the area, the United Kingdom and the United States came forward to mediate, and [afterward] the Ching court ordered Shen Bao-jhen to organize Taiwan's coastal defenses.  At the time the Ching coastal defenses were very weak, and the Ching administration suffered from both internal and external threats [in China] (Appendix 3).  This is why they allowed the British and Americans to mediate, and why they both paid an indemnity of 500,000 taels and recognized Japan's right to protect its citizens.  They also recognized Japan's sovereignty over the Ryukyu Islands. 

After this incident, the Ching court finally realized that Japan was a major threat, and ordered Shen Bao-jhen to take charge of Taiwan's coastal defense (Appendix 4).  Hengchun was viewed as an important area, so a fortified city was built there, in an effort to open up this and nearby mountain areas to settlement (Appendix 5).  An administration based on 19 prefectures was established, using the four principles set forth by Shen Bao-jhen, Ding Rh-chang and Liu Ming-chuan (Appendix 6). (3)

三 , 社會發展 Societal Development

1. 恆春老街的演變 The Evolution of Hengchun's Old Street (4)

恆春老街擁有百年歷史 , 當年較大的貨輸可直接停靠南灣 , 於是建有台車自恆春南門通往南灣以便貨運 , 而帆船則停靠海口 , 以牛車載運由西門入城 .  西門至南門一段嚴然成為貨物運輸的重要管道 , 商業區於是在今之西門街 , 中山路一帶形成 .  街上建築經過明 , 清 , 日治時代 , 擁有多元的色彩 , 近年來 , 老街行人磚步道鋪設完成 , 吸引不少年輕族群及遊客消費 .  The history of Hengchun's Old Street goes back a hundred years.  In former times large shipments of goods passed through Nanwan, and a trolley was built from Hengchun's South Gate to Nanwan to transport freight.  Sailboats stopped at Haikou, and from there goods from Ximen were transported into the city by ox cart.  The Ximen to South Gate trade route became very important, and the commercial area which formed around what is now Ximen Street and Jungshan Road reflects this.  [Some] buildings on this street have passed through the Ming, Ching and Japanese Colonial eras, and they come in a variety of colors.  In recent years brick walkways for pedestrians have been completed, and the area attracts both young people and tourists eager to spend their money. (5)

2. 觀光事業 The Tourism Industry

恆春半島是風景優美的觀光勝地 , 石門古戰場 , 以溫泉聞名的四重溪 , 墾丁國家公園 , 鵝鑾鼻燈塔 , 帆船石等 , 以及貓鼻頭 , 三台山 , 龍鑾潭 , 虎頭山 , 赤牛嶺 , 馬鞍山 , 千秋洞 , 猴洞山等所謂 "恆春八景" , 均膾炙人口 .  此外 , 墾丁國家公園因較晚開發 , 保留下豐富的地質 , 奇岩怪石 , 珊瑚礁 , 以及冬候鳥 , 如赤腹鷹 , 灰面鳩等珍貴的生態資源 , 更是此地得天獨厚的觀光資產 .  然而在開發觀光時 , 由於業者與政府短視近利的心態 , 以及國人對生態永續發展知識的貧乏 , 同時犧牲了這些歷史演變累積下來的珍貴寶藏 , 如大型觀光飯店將山坡地整片開挖 , 泥沙流入海岸 , 改變海洋水域的水質 , 成為茶毒墾丁海域生靈的第一道殺手 .  建造後壁湖遊艇港 , 不惜開挖千萬年才形成的高位珊瑚礁岩 .  核三廠的熱水日夜湧進海洋 , 高溫水域造成了珊瑚白化 .  假日人潮造成的生活廢水 , 廢棄物橫流 ; 水上摩托車 , 沙灘車以及民眾撿拾貝殼白沙 , 嚴重干優海岸生態等等 . The Hengchun Peninsula is a tourist attraction of great scenic beauty.  The Shrmen Battle Site, the famous Ssechongxi Hot Springs near the Ssechongxi River, Kenting National Park, Uluanbi Lighthouse, Fanchuan (Sailboat) Rock, Maobitou, Sanhe Mountain, Longluan Lake, Hutou Mountain, Chiniou Ridge, Maan Mountain, Chianchiou Cave, Houdong Mountain and the other well known "Eight Scenic Spots in Hengchun" [are all located here.]  In addition Kenting National Park, which was opened [to the public] later, retains a varied geography which includes fascinating rocks and coral reefs.  Other tourism resources include birds that migrate here in the winter, such as the Chinese sparrowhawk and the "gray-breasted dove."  This area is uniquely suited to tourism. (6)

However, when the area was first developed for tourism both businesses and the government were very short-sighted.  The people at that time lacked sufficient knowledge of sustainable development, and ecological treasures that had accumulated in this area over time were sacrificed.  For example, entire mountainsides were excavated in the building of large hotels for tourists, and the sediment from these excavations washed into the sea, affecting water quality near the coast of Kenting and killing many of the sea creatures living there.  As the Houbihu Wharf was being built the coral there, which had formed over tens of millions of years, was also excavated.  Hot water from the nuclear power plant [near Nanwan] was released into the bay at all hours, and this high temperature water caused coral bleaching.  On holiday weekends waste water generated by tourists, pollutants released into [local waters], jet skis, ATVs, and people collecting beach shells and sand all seriously affected the coastal ecology.

四 , 建築佈局與特色 Architectural Layout and Characteristics

1. 昔日恆春城之佈局 The Layout of Hengchun's Old City in the Past

1. 恆春古城內的街道呈雙丁字形 , 昔時北門為正門 , 至縣城的人翻山越嶺抵車城 , 或經海道至後灣上岸 , 越龜山至新街 , 再經五里亭 , 網紗溪 , 沿山腳經北門入城 , 此即古時候之官道 .  惟原住民常殺人 , 一般居民皆由五里亭直抵西門 .  而當時城內居民多集中於西門 , 南門附近 ; 北門附近為練兵營 , 居民甚少 ; 東門則為昔時台南郡至卑南必經之路 .  城內公共建築分佈如下 : (1) 縣署 : 相當於現今的縣政府 , 管轄恆春城及城外十七里 , 恆春警分局現址 ; (2) 典史署 : 相當於現今的警政署 , 專管緝捕及獄囚 , 在今台汽恆春站站址 ; (3) 文廟 ; 在猴洞山上 , 原澄心亭改建 , 今恆春石碑公園址已不存 ; (4) 同善公所 : 相當於現今之救濟院 , 收容老人及孤兒 , 後改為猴洞書院 , 又被恆春游擊借作公廨 , 今已不存 ; (5) 天后宮 : 為當時恆春營官兵所建 , 在猴洞山南麓 .  供奉的是海上保護神媽祖 , 祈求鞏固海陲 ; (6) 風神廟 , 在南門城內 , 奉祀風神及雨神 , 光緒11年建 , 今不存 ; (7) 城隍廟 : 在縣署左方 , 今恆春國小舊校址 , 及恆春鎮公所新址 , 城隍神改奉於廣寧宮 ; (8) 福德祠 : 在猴洞山西麓 , 近年已改建落成啟用 ; (9) 三山國王廟 : 在猴洞山北麓 , 今之廣寧宮 , 已改建 ; (10) 白龍庵 : 在南門內 , 恆春營官兵台建 , 今不存 ; (11) 五龍君王廟 : 在南門內客人街 , 今不存 ; (12) 觀音廟 , 在猴洞山南麓 , 今改建為清水巖 .  由以上建築分佈可見 , 官方建築位於恆春城上半部 , 居民建築則位於恆春城下半部 .  The streets of Hengchun's Old City are in the shape of two Ts placed together. (7)  In old times the North Gate was the main entrance.  Those going to Hengchun reached it by traveling along the mountain ridges and passing through Checheng, or they arrived from the port at Houwan (8), passng by Guei Mountain [on their way to the] new street, [after which point] they passed by Wuliting, the Wangsha River, and followed the foothills to the North Gate.  This was the official route during ancient times.  Due to the life-threatening presence of [hostile] aborigines, however, most residents went straight to the East Gate from Wuliting. (9)

At that time most residents were concentrated near the East and South gates, with few people living near the training camp near the North Gate.  In the past the East Gate was the only way to Tainan and Beinan [in Taitung from this area].

The distribution of public buildings in the Old City was as follows: 

(1) The prefecture office, equivalent to the present county government, was located approximately where the ruins of the Hengchun Police Station now is, and administered an area of roughly 17 square kilometres.  

(2) The "Dianshr Department," equivalent to the modern police department, specialized in the arrest and incarceration of [criminals].  It was located where the ruins of Taiwan Automotive now are.  

(3) The Confucian Temple was atop Houdong Mountain.  The original Chengxin Pavilion was rebuilt, and the ruins of the old temple, located in what is now the Hengchun Stele Park, are no longer in existence.  

(4) The Tongshan Office, which was the equivalent of the modern almshouse or orphanage, later became the Houdong Academy, and later still was occupied and then donated as a public building.  It no longer exists.  

(5) The Tianhou Temple, which was built by soldiers stationed in Hengchun, was to the south at the base of Houdong Mountain.  It was dedicated to the goddess Matzu, and [worshipers] prayed there for protection at sea.  

(6) The Fengshen Temple, which was outside the South Gate, was built during the 11th year of Emperor Guangxu's reign, and was dedicated to the gods of rain and wind.  It no longer exists.  

(7) The Chenghuang Temple was to the left of the prefecture office, where the old Hengchun Elementary School campus and the Hengchun Municipality Office now stand.  The Chenghuang Temple later became the Guangning Temple.  

(8) The Fude (Tudigong) Shrine, was to the west, at the foot of Houdong Mountain.  It was recently rebuilt and reopened.  

(9) The Lords of the Three Mountains Temple was to the north, also at the foot of Houdong Mountain.  It was also rebuilt and incorporated into Guangning Temple. 

(10) Bailoong Temple was inside the South Gate, and was built by soldiers stationed in Hengchun.  It no longer exists. 

(11) The Wuloongjun King's Temple was inside the South Gate, on Keren Street.  It no longer exists. 

(12) The Kuanyin Temple was to the south at the foot of Houdong Mountain.  It's been rebuilt as Qingshuiyan.  

As you can see from the distribution of buildings above, the administrative buildings were located in the upper half of Hengchun, while the residential buildings were located in the lower half. (10)

2. 老街建築 The Buildings on the Old Street

現存的老街建築 , 主要分佈於西門城內的西門路上 , 大都屬日治時期的仿巴洛克式建築和之後的現代主義式建築 , 因此有紅磚 , 洗石子或併用等風格出現 , 有些尚可見舊閩南建築翻修加蓋立面的建築痕跡 .  Most of the old buildings still extant are to be found inside the East Gate, on Ximen Road.  Most of these buildings are [examples] of the "Imitation Baroque" style popular during the Japanese Imperial Administration and the "Later Modernist" which followed it.  For this reason there is a lot of red brick, "washed stone," or combinations of the two building methods evident in the area.  On some buildings you can see facades or other traces of Fujian-style architecture.

3. 外國防禦古城案列 Examples of Fortified Cities in Other Countries

(1) 中國山西平遙古城 : 位於山西的平遙古城 , 有二千七百多年歷史 , 是中國目前保存最為完整的四座古城之一 , 符合 "世界文化遺產" 之保存條件 , 顯示出一個時期或一個文化地區中 , 對建築 , 藝術 , 都市計畫或景觀設計發展上重要影響力者 , 為文化傳統或文明之唯一或稀少之證據 , 也是一個時代的代表性建築 , 聚落或景觀 , 1997年被列為聯合國教科文組織的世界文化遺產 .  The Pingyao Old City, located in Shanxi, China, is more than 2,700 years old.  It's one of the four best preserved of China's old cities, and is maintained in accordance with World Cultural Heritage guidelines.  It exemplifies an area that was an important influence on architecture, art, urban planning and landscape design.  It is either the sole or one of the few remaining artifacts of a cultural tradition or civilization, and it contains buildings, a settlement or landscape which represent an era.  It was listed as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site in 1997.

(2) TOLEDO : 在Tagus河畔土黃色岩石山丘上的托雷多 (Toledo) ,  有二千多年歷史 , 曾經是古西班牙首都 , 是建於1573年的正方形防禦性堡壘 , 最大的特色是四邊高塔 , 自高塔裡眺望 , 可以看到來攻城的敵人動向 .  該城符合 "世界文化遺產" 之保存條件中的 (1) 具有創造力的傑作 (2) 顯示出一個時期或一個文化地區中 , 對建築 , 藝術 , 都市計畫或景觀設計發展上重要影響力者 (3) 為文化傳統或文明之唯一或稀少之證據 (4) 一個時代的代表性建築 , 聚落或景觀 .  1986年被列為聯合國教科文組織的世界文化遺產  . Toledo is on the rocky yellow hills next to the Tagus River.  It's over 2000 years old, and was in ancient times the capital of Spain.  It is a square defensive fortress built in 1573, with its most distinctive feature being a tall four-sided tower.  From this high tower you can see enemy troop movements.  The city was declared a World Cultural Heritage Site by meeting three conditions: (1) It is a creative masterpiece, (2) It exemplifies a place or cultural area which had a profound effect on the development of subsequent architecture, art, urban planning or landscape design, (3) it is the sole or one of the few remaining examples of a civilization or cultural tradition, and (4) It contains buildings, a settlement or a landscape which represent an era.  It was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986.

五 , 古蹟的保存維護與再利用 Preservation, Maintenance and New Uses for Historic Sites

1. 世界文化遺產的意義與界定 Importance and Definitions of World Cultural Heritage Sites

世界文化遺產概念 , 是1992年12月在美國召開的 "聯合國教科文組織 -- 世界遺產委員會" 第十六屆會議時正式提出 , 由此 , 世界遺產即分為自然遺產 , 文化遺產 , 自然遺產與文化遺產混合體和文化景觀 .  "世界遺產名錄" 目前收錄了超過七百個自然和文化遺產 , 從印度的泰姬瑪哈陵 , 到西班牙馬德里的通布圖城 , 還包括像澳大利亞大堡礁 (附錄7) .  "聯合國教科文組織" 編列名單廣納各項世界文化遺產之餘 , 更努力為保護特殊遺產提供跨國家界線的技術援助 , 如柬埔賽吳哥王朝時代的古都 , 和現在摩洛哥的回教式古城哈夫斯城等 , 都曾受該組織串聯各國與民間組力量的支持 .  近年蒙受戰火波及的阿富汗 , 也在戰火終結後 , 接受該組織展開的一個大型新專案 , 拯救載戰火中危在旦夕的大型佛像石刻等豐富文化遺產 .  "世界遺產委員會" 是以六個基準代表評價的標準 , 要登錄為世界文化遺產名單 , 入名的景點至少要符合其中一項 , 還要符合四種 "真實性" .  (附錄8) The concept of the World Cultural Heritage Site was formally proposed during the 16th session of the "UNESCO World Heritage Committee" in December 1992.  As a result of this committee "world heritage" is divided into "natural heritage," "cultural heritage" and a combination of natural heritage and cultural heritage against [a larger] cultural background.  

"The World Heritage List" contains more than 700 natural and cultural heritage sites, ranging from India's Taj Mahal, to the city of Timbuktu, to Madrid, Spain, to Australia's Great Barrier Reef (Appendix 7).  UNESCO compiles a list of various world cultural heritage sites, and attempts to work across national boundaries for the preservation of these sites.  For example, the ancient capital city of Angkor Wat in Cambodia and the Muslim city of "Hafs" in Morocco were both protected by UNESCO's connections to governmental and civic groups.  In Afghanistan, a country ravaged by years of warfare, a large project to save the historically and culturally important Buddhist statues in that region was undertaken.  "The World Heritage Committee" reviews sites based on six benchmarks.  To be placed on the World Heritage List, the listed sites must conform to at least one of the benchmarks and must possess four types of "authenticity." (Appendix 8) (11)

2. 外國古蹟維護的方法 Methods of Maintaining Historic Sites in Other Countries

近年來 , 世界各國隨著國家經濟的成長 , 激起學術界認真反思過去的人文遺跡 , 是否能為自己的國家民族帶來文化上的豐富價值 ?  以及該如何去做好保存與維護的工作 ?  以日本為例 , 自1993年奈良法隆寺與姬路城以來 , 目前已登錄為世界遺產的有自然遺產 , 文化遺產與無形文化遺產共十四件 , 正申請中的有四件 .  1949年 , 日本國寶一法隆寺金堂發生臨摹壁畫用的電氣坐墊起火事件 , 重要的文化遺產壁畫付之一炬 .  也因為這個教順 , 日本政府次年就制定 "文化財保護法" .  日本的文化遺產保存觀念 , 經過數十年的耕耘 , 已經深入民間 , 有些古蹟甚至是籍由小朋友撿到的碎片而發現的 . In recent years, the growth of national economies has stimulated academics throughout the world to reflect on their cultural heritage.  Is it possible to strengthen the people of any nation through these [shared] cultural treasures?  And how to preserve and maintain them?  

Taking Japan as an example, beginning with Horyuji Temple and Himeji Castle 14 locations of both tangible and intangible cultural value have been declared World Heritage Sites, with four additional locations under review.  In 1949, electric cushions used by those copying mural paintings in Horyuji Temple's Golden Hall caught fire, burning an important cultural artifact.  Thanks to this harsh lesson, the Japanese government enacted a "cultural property protection law" the following year.  After decades of hard work, the need to protect their cultural heritage has been ingrained into the Japanese people, and some sites were even discovered after children discovered fragments [of stone or pottery] near a site. (12)

2. People in Pingtung: By the Numbers

For a more general look at Pingtung County, please refer to the An Introduction to Pingtung County entry.  For what follows I consulted the county census for August 2021.

There are 807,970 people living in Pingtung County.  411,488 of these people are men, and 396,482 are women.  60,674 of these people are members of aboriginal tribes, and 2,266 of them moved to Pingtung from other areas.  A larger number, 2,545 moved away from the county last month.  310 babies were born in Pingtung in July, and 692 people, over double that number, passed away.

There are some trends observable in the above numbers.  The primary trend is a decline in population.  Pingtung's population was largest around 1995, when the census recorded over 900,000 people here.  Since then the population has declined by about 100,000, and there is no reason to think that this trend will be arrested or reversed.  Many people are still leaving Pingtung to find work elsewhere, and with the number of births only half the number of deaths this trend will probably become even more dramatic in the near future.  

There is also the average age of the population to consider.  With an increasingly elderly population, Pingtung will likely experience a kind of "emptying out" in the short term, with villages outside of urban areas becoming less populated, less livable, and less economically viable.

Looking at the number of people living in various parts of Pingtung can also give a clearer picture of what's to come.  The most populous part of the county, Pingtung City, boasts 196,653 residents, or 24% of the population.  With the Pingtung County Government located in Pingtung City, and with almost a fourth of the county's population there, decisions made by the county government will tend to reflect what's going on in Pingtung City, and not what's going on in more remote areas.  For those who want less government interference in their lives, and who happen to live in an outlying area, this can be a good thing, but in terms of improving social services and infrastructure it can be a real obstacle.  Many people in Pingtung want to make their county better, but the distance between those making the decisions and those affected by them tends to make the county government somewhat uncertain, prone to error, and in some areas open to corruption.

After Pingtung City, the most populous parts of the county are Chaozhou (53,851) and Neipu (52,910).  Chaozhou, southeast of Pingtung City, is a lot closer to the center of the county, and is a major transportation hub.  The 88 Expressway from Kaohsiung ends in Chaozhou, the Chaozhou Train Station was recently upgraded, and much of its infrastructure serves nearby townships.  Neipu, benefiting from its location east of Pingtung City, has more of an industrial base, and is close to two major universities.

This said, Chaozhou only has about 7% of the county's total population, with Neipu closer to 6%.  Aside from Chaozhou, Pingtung's other two municipalities, Donggang and Hengchun, can only claim populations of 46,590 (6%) and 30,236 (4%) respectively.  Both of these areas have declined in population over the years, with Donggang's population peaking around 2006, and Hengchun's population peaking even further back, around 1981.

And even Hengchun's population looks big when compared to some of the mountain townships, wherein only a few thousand, mostly aboriginal people live.  An aging and shrinking population looms large in Pingtung's future, with increasing numbers of people either dying off or moving out of the county.  I have no doubt that some will continue to move into Pingtung; I have no doubt that some younger residents will find opportunity here, but the overall trend points in the opposite direction, with many of the villages where people grew up and once prospered beginning to resemble ghost towns.

Does all of this sound depressing?  Maybe to some, but others might see it as a good thing.  Land prices, for one thing, are likely to go down outside of the major urban and tourist centers.  Traffic, Pingtung's Achilles heel, might actually get better and - we hope - safer.  Natural areas, not well protected in this county, will also benefit from less population pressure.  And the sun will continue to shine in the sky, the birds will sing in the trees, and life will go on, as it invariably does, in most places.

3. Pingtung in the News 屏東的新聞 (South 南) 4

There are 29 townships, 3 municipalities and one city in Pingtung County.  It's exhausting to include news from every township, municipality and Pingtung City every time, so what I'll do instead is include news items from eleven different townships or municipalities in each entry.  This way I should be able to work my way through Pingtung County every three entries. 屏東縣包含了29個鄉, 3個鎮還有屏東市.  每次討論所有鄉鎮的新聞太累了, 所以我會每次討論11個鄉鎮的報告.  這樣子我每三篇新聞文章就會涵蓋到全縣內鄉鎮的新聞.

1. Linbian Township 林邊鄉

1a. The head of the Linbian Village Association passed away at the age of 74.  He was very popular, and recently worked to promote "tree burials" over more traditional, less environmentally friendly burial practices. 林邊鄉代吳冬白辭世  亨壽74歲

2. Jiadong Township 佳冬鄉

2a. The tall historic building next to the Old Xiao Family Residence will be restored and later opened to the public.  It is regarded as "the last piece of the puzzle" in the local effort to create a more comprehensive historic site in the area. 屏東佳冬87年年豪宅變爛樓  官民賦予老建築新生命

2b. Military drills have interfered with the flow of traffic through Jiadong, specifically the flow of traffic along Jiadong's section of Highway 1, and the access road between Lili and Highway 1.  Additional military drills will occur this month, and these drills, in combination with road construction projects already underway, will cause more traffic jams in the area. 佳冬戰備道戰機演訓半封路  周末車潮激增祭出分流

2c. There was an accident involving a truck in the same area.  The driver of the truck briefly lost control of his vehicle, and collided with a guardrail and a construction vehicle parked nearby.  He received several bruises and was taken to the hospital. 屏東佳冬鄉戰備跑道車禍  曳引車撞擊護欄再撞施工機械車

3. Fangliao Township 枋寮鄉

3a. Traffic jams were prevalent last weekend, the last of summer vacation.  And where is Pingtung's weekend traffic the worst?  Usually in Fangliao, where highways 1 and 17 come together. 暑假最後黃金週  台1線枋寮段湧車潮

3b. Here's an article about restaurants "within walking distance" of the Fangliao Train Station.  枋寮車站 "漁菓之鄉" 西施舌 , 鱔魚麵 , 超人氣美食步行只要10分鐘 ! (1)

4. Chun Rh Township 春日鄉

4a. No recent news out of Chun Rh.

5. Fangshan Township 枋山鄉

5a. Those following the national news may remember a case of the COVID-19 Delta variant which popped up in Fangshan not long ago.  While the government does attempt to protect the privacy of those diagnosed with the coronavirus, the reality is that local infections can cause a lot of tension between the residents of small villages.  This article explains the situation. 小社會裡的替罪羊 -- 幾無容身處的農村感染者 , 艱難復歸路

6. Shrdze Township 獅子鄉

6a. No recent news out of Shrdze.

7. Checheng Township 車城鄉

7a. Members of the Baoli and Houwan communities were invited to a field trip centered around local history and ecology.  This field trip was the result of a recent survey conducted by faculty from Jiayi University. 走讀屏東車城社區  了解 "斯卡羅" 柴成人文 (2)

7b. It's a long and convoluted story, and I feel like there's more to it that what's present in the article, but a dispute over an unpaid loan led to a beating in Checheng.  替女友討債強押老友  為愛放下情與義 !  被害人逃車城消防隊避劫

8. Mudan Township 牡丹鄉

8a. No recent news out of Mudan.

9. Manzhou Township 滿洲鄉

9a. No recent news out of Manzhou.

10. Hengchun Municipality 恆春鎮

10a. The old brick kiln (factory) located near Hengchun's old fortifications will become a tourist site in the near future. 屏東恆春八卦磚窯  變身觀光景點

10b. After the recent success of "Sse Ka Lo," a Netflix show focusing on aboriginal tribes on the Hengchun Peninsula, an aboriginal group not recognized as such by the government renewed its efforts with regard to gaining official recognition. 排灣遺族血綠  被一紙登記卡住 (3)

11. Liuqiu Township 琉球鄉

11a. Students on Liuqiu enjoyed an extended summer vacation during the "Welcoming in the King's Peace" festival there.  They will make up the missed days during winter vacation. 今天開學很反常 !  小琉球迎王祭全校放假  擬晚放寒假補課 (4)

11b. A woman from Liuqiu recently competed in a table tennis competition in Tokyo.  She won a bronze medal. 田曉雯帕奧奪銅  潘孟安 : 展現琉球囝仔的熱情與毅力

11c. As you might expect, tourists also mobbed Liuqiu last weekend.  Around 6000 people visited the island, and I ask you, with that many people riding the ferries and crowding onto that tiny island, what was the point of those epidemic prevention measures? 暑假尾聲玩水勝地全爆棚 !  小琉球逾6千人登島  墾丁湧5萬遊客

4. Taiwan 101: First Steps

I realize that with COVID doing the rounds there aren't a lot of new people coming into Taiwan, but I thought it might be fun to take things back to the most basic level possible.  This entry and others like it will be aimed at new arrivals.  Hopefully there will be more of you in the near future.

1. Getting a Job in Taiwan

I am the wrong person to ask about this.  Yes, I've been in Taiwan over two decades, and yes, I have a job teaching English here, and yes, I know potential employers in two different counties, but my knowledge of the local job market is not up to date.

Part of the reason for this is that I've been in the Ministry of Education's FET (Foreign English Teacher) Program since 2006, and even though I've had a few side jobs (with other people's consent, of course) I've been doing pretty much the same thing in the same place for a long time.  I have friends who bounce between private schools, but that's not the same as having to rely on that as a main source of income.

There's also the fact that I moved to rural Pingtung from urban Taitung last year.  I live in the country now, and jobs where I live are few and far between.  I occasionally hear about local gigs, but it's not usually something you could live off of.

So yeah, I can talk generally about working in Taiwan, or more specifically about working in the FET (now referred to as "TFETP") Program, but I'm not a good source of information when it comes to jobs.

2. Getting a Visa

Again, I'm a poor source of information.  WAY back in 1999 I got a tourist visa, and sometime after that the private school where I worked got me a work visa.  Since late 2000 I've been on a marriage visa, and even though I'm eligible for an APRC I have no desire to switch.  The cost per year of a marriage visa and an APRC is the same, and I'm not planning on getting a divorce anytime soon.

If you're overseas, head to the nearest TECRO office.  Just make sure you get the right visa.  I got the wrong visa once and it was a nightmare. 

3. Getting on a Plane

Aside from obvious things like buying a ticket, I can tell you nothing.  I haven't been through an airport since 2018.  From what I've heard airports are a whole other thing now, and that's not even taking things like PCR tests and quarantine buses into consideration.

4. Arriving

Provided you're not a tourist, which is an eventuality even further removed than coming here for employment, there should be someone meeting you at the airport.  If there isn't, and if the reason isn't COVID, this is a huge red flag.

Should you exchange currencies at the airport?  I would say yes.  5000 thousand NT should be enough.  Credit cards also work in Taiwan, even though the banking system is very different.  Cash machine cards from other countries often work too, provided you can find the right ATM.

After the airport I assume it's off to quarantine with you, or, assuming you're reading this in some wonderful, future time when we're NOT worrying about pandemics, it's off to your hotel or wherever else you're staying.

Then, jet lag.  If you're travelling across continents jet lag will hit you very hard.  Especially the first time.  Some people "manage" jet lag with pills, other with coffee, others with alcohol, but however you manage it's going to catch up sooner or later.  You might find yourself "missing a day" after arrival.

5. Strangers When We Met

It's 1999.  I'm 25 years old.  I have no idea where I am or what I'm supposed to be doing.  Aside from myself there are nine other people in the room, all sitting in uncomfortably small chairs.  Seven of these people are from countries other than Taiwan.  Two of these people are Taiwanese.  One of the Taiwanese people is the director of our school.

G: I really can't believe this.  In South Africa teachers would never be asked to--

M: We all have to work that Saturday.  And we're not in South Africa.

E: Anybody have one of those coffee packets?

An: I heard _____'s not here because she's having a baby.

P: If we could just start the meeting--

E: She took the month off.

Ad: Yeah I've got one.  Let me go back to my class and get it.

G: But I've told the school again and again that I cannot work Saturdays.  I have other things to do...

E: Thanks man.

P: OK everyone, let's start when he comes back.

M: It's already 2:20.  I need to be back in class.

Ad: There you go.

E: Thanks.

It's 2004.  I'm 29 years old.  I know where I am and what I'm supposed to be doing... it's just a question of whether or not they'll let me do it.  Aside from myself there are five other people in the room, all sitting in comfortable office chairs in front of a TV.  All of these people come from countries other than Taiwan.

Z: So should I request leave before the 4-day holiday?  Or can I just tell you guys that I won't be here?

B: Don't worry about it, man.  No one's working that day.

Z: Cool.

Ad: Can we talk about the Christmas show?  It's coming soon and we should really practice together.

B: When?

Ad: Lunch?  Just after lunch?  Before their nap?

D: When I was at the Experimental School they had a BIG Christmas show.

B:...

N: Are we having the show in the school?

B: Yes.

Z: By the way, my grandpa died.  I'm gonna have to take time off to go back for the funeral.

It's 2006.  I'm 31 years old.  I know where I am and what I'm supposed to be doing.  The trouble is that they don't know who I am, and they don't know what I'm supposed to be doing.  Aside from myself there are about 30 people in the room.  All of these other people are Taiwanese.

K: Should we collect the money for her red envelope?

J: Principal, I was wondering if we'll be joining the curriculum competition.

W: Yes, we will.  What can teacher _____ do?

J: He's already started translating the slides in the PowerPoint.  He says he'll be finished this Friday.

Ad: Yes, I will.

W: Will he be presenting with us?

Ad: Yes, I will.

J: Yes, he will.

W: This is very good.  I have to go to Taipei next Monday, but I'll practice my part and be ready before we go to Kaohsiung.  Any other questions?

R: I have a question--

L: How much should each of us put in the envelope?

K: I don't know.

W: Good.  Well, I have to go to Xinsheng for a meeting.  See you tomorrow.

It's 2009.  I'm 34 years old.  I know where I am but sometimes I'm not sure what I'm supposed to be doing.  Aside from myself there are four other people in the room.  Three of these people are from countries other than Taiwan.  One of these people is Taiwanese.

R: I'm going to get married.

A: Really?  That's great!

Ad: Congratulations.

S: When is the wedding?

R: During the Chinese New Year holiday.

Ad: Does this mean you're going to settle down in Taiwan?

R: Naw, we're going back to Texas.

A: You're from Texas?  I always thought you were from Seattle.

R: No, it's _____ that's from Seattle.  Weren't you guys talking about this last meeting?

A: Oh yeah...

It's 2020.  I'm 45 years old.  I know where I am but I'm not sure if this is what I should be doing.  Aside from myself there are many other people filling the large meeting room, some foreign and some Taiwanese.  No one has a clear idea who the other people in the room are, or why we've all been summoned there.

S: Hey I remember you.

Ad: You do?

S: Yeah, you were in Taipei giving the speech.

Ad: I hope I made sense.  I was seriously jetlagged.

S: Yeah, you were fine man.

Ad: So... why are we here?

L: Yeah, why?

O: They're talking about the science lesson.

R: The last director had a baby last month.

L: What's the science lesson?

S: It's this thing where we go to another school on Thursday and teach science.

R: I think it was a boy.

Ad: Oh.  Do we all have to do this science lesson?

L: Yeah we do.  Who's this guy talking?

It's some distant, future time.  I might be someone else and I might be doing something completely different.  I might be sitting somewhere.  Aside from myself there might be other people.  Some of these people might be from countries other than Taiwan.  Some of these people might be Taiwanese.

?:

?:

?:

?:

6. Roaming Around Chaozhou Municipality 潮州鎮遊記

Chaozhou is east of Kanding and north of Xinpi.  It's one of Pingtung's three municipalities.  According to the last census, 53,820 people live in Chaozhou. 潮州位於崁頂的東部 , 新埤的北部 .  上次人口統計表上潮州有53,820人 .

The most "famous" things in Chaozhou are the Forest Park, the green tunnel and Bada Forest Amusement Park.  There's also a beef restaurant that seems very popular with tourists.  I go to Chaozhou fairly often. 潮州最有名的景點是森林園區 , 綠色隧道跟8大森林樂園 .  還有一家似乎很受觀光客喜愛的牛肉餐廳 .  我常常去潮州 .

This sign is across from the Chaozhou Train Station.  The Chinese opera guy is a reference to a local Chinese opera troupe.  There's a Chinese opera museum in town. 這個牌子位於潮州車站對面 .  中間的先生跟當地的歌仔戲劇團有關 .  潮州有一棟戲曲故事館 .

This is downtown, across the street from Chaozhou's "cold hot ice" dessert shop.  The Starbucks and the Culture Park are down the road to the right.  If you're visiting the area, be very careful when passing through these circular intersections. 這是潮州的市區, 冷熱冰店就在這對面 .  右邊那條路是往星巴克跟日式歷史建築文化園區 .  在潮州過這種路口要非常小心 .

An old church near the train station.  Some bible verses for your edification? 車站附近的舊教堂 .  想學聖經嗎 ?

Near the McDonald's.  We usually park in this area and then walk to nearby restaurants for lunch or dinner.  I miss the 85 Coffee Shop that used to be here.  It was a nice place to sit on rainy days. 在麥當勞附近 .  我們通常把車停在這附近 , 然後走路到附近的餐廳吃飯 .  我想念這邊的85度C .  下雨天坐在那邊很舒服 .

Old buildings within the Culture Park.  These buildings were constructed by the Japanese Colonial Administration. 文化園區裡的日式建築 .

Inside one of the buildings.  They'll probably fix it up at some point, but I'd rather they left it like this. 這是一棟日式建築的裡面 .  這大概有一天會被重新整修 , 可是我覺得保留這樣的面貌就好 .

And what's that, you say?  You like old, semi-abandoned amusement parks?  I hereby give you Bada Forest Amusement Park, the creepiest of all Taiwan's tourist attractions.  This place is OLD, and I wouldn't be surprised if it was shut down soon.  They're attempting to run it as some kind of "eco-park" now. 你說什麼 ?  你喜歡奇奇怪怪半荒廢的樂園嗎 ?  我介紹你台灣最奇怪嚇人的8大森林樂園 .  這個樂園超級舊 , 舊到快停止營業了吧 .  8大最近好像朝生態公園發展 .

Call me crazy, but this pool looks like an excellent place to contract a bacterial infection. 這邊的水可以玩嗎 ?  不會有問題嗎 ?  我不太清楚 .

In case any of the staff at Bada see these pictures, no, we didn't ignore the signs telling people to stay out of this area.  It's just that we entered from the other side, down a side path where there were no signs. 以免8大的工作人員看到這些照片以為我們不守規矩 , 我們不是忽視警告牌闖進去的 .  我們順著步道進去卻走到另一邊的入口 .  那邊沒有放任何警示牌.

So yeah, this is what used to be "Water World."  It was probably really fun in the 80s, when this place first opened.  Now it's the abode of iguanas. 這個破破爛爛的地方是當時的水世界 .  現在則是鬣蜥天堂 .

There's some truly spooky stuff in this place.  I'm guessing this tree inspired a lot of nightmares over the years. 這裡有的東西真的很恐怖 .  這棵樹應該曾經讓很多孩子做惡夢 .

For whatever reason someone is keeping silkworms on the property.  About a third of this place resembles a petting zoo, a third is a barbecue area, and the remaining third is a lot of rusting, long-forgotten rides. 有人在這裡養蠶 .  這個樂園的部分像動物園 , 部分是烤肉區 , 還有部分是充滿了生鏽的遊樂器材 .

If the tree wasn't bad enough, how about a spooky octopus? 那棵樹不夠恐怖嗎 ?  那這隻章魚呢 ?

Or a tiny rollercoaster, falling into ruin? 還是快掉下來的小過山車 ?

Or a spooky angel in a bush? 還是嚇人的小天使 ?

Or this CAVE OF TERROR, which even i wasn't brave enough to venture into? 還是這個盤絲洞 ?  我也不敢進去 !

Lastly there's the Forest Park, which is on the outskirts of Chaozhou, toward Laiyi.  This place is very crowded on weekends, and despite its name there aren't that many trees here.  Some of the land is used to grow pineapples, some is grassland, and the land near the park boundaries actually has trees.  Kids love playing in the canals inside the park, and adults enjoy riding bicycles along its trails. 最後有靠近來義鄉的森林園區 .  周末的時候這裡很多人 .  奇怪的部分是這個園區的樹沒那麼多 .  有的地是種鳳梨 , 有的地是草地 , 公園的邊界也有樹林 .  小朋友很喜歡在這裡的水溝玩水 ; 成人喜歡在這裡的單車道騎單車 .

7. What I've Learned in Pingtung So Far 我在屏東發現的事 2

1. Kenting is definitely overrated, but the part near Baisha is nice if you get there early. 墾丁不像很多人想的那麼好玩 , 可是如果你早點去到那裡, 白沙附近不錯 .

2. The stretch of the Mountainside Highway through south Xinpi is scary when it rains. 下雨天的時候 , 沿山公路上新埤南部的那一段路況很糟 .

3. When driving to Pingtung City to visit Carrefour, it's much easier to visit the store south of the Pingtung Train Station. 開車去屏東火車站南部的家樂福比較方便 .

4. Wanluan is a nice place to walk around. 在萬巒散步很不錯 .

5. Swimming is possible in Fangliao, it's just that not many people do it. 在枋寮可以游泳 , 只是游泳的人不多而已 .

6. There are many secret waterfalls in the mountains. 山區有很多隱密的瀑布 .

7. Whatever you do, don't bring the Delta variant back to your small village in Fangshan. 無論你做什麼 , 千萬不要把Delta帶回去你枋山的小村莊 .

8. It might seem like some people have a lot of power, but given enough collective apathy their ideas can be minimized. 有些人看起來似乎很有勢力 , 可是只要大眾不理他, 他們的影響力就不足為道.

9. Xiaoliuqiu has never been, nor will ever be, that fun.  It will always be too small for the scene they're trying to create. 小琉球現在不是 , 未來也不會多好玩 .  那個島嶼太小了 , 不符合他們所要塑造的形象 .

10. Watch your ass driving around central Donggang. 在東港市區開車要特別小心 .

11. Ditto for driving around traffic circles in Chaozhou. 在潮州的圓環也要特別小心 .

12. Ditto for driving near department stores in Pingtung City. 在屏東市百貨公司附近也要特別小心 .

13. Nothing is as potentially dangerous as an elderly, unhelmeted person driving a scooter through a traditional market.  Nothing. 沒有比年紀大且沒戴安全帽 , 並經過傳統菜市場的摩托車騎士更危險的人了 .

14. Good manners are wasted on some people. 對有些人保持禮貌真是浪費時間 .

15. There are shades of both "legal" and "illegal." 有時候區分"非法的"跟"合法的"不是一件簡單的事情  .

16. Some older people have a strange loyalty to the powdered "coffee" served at breakfast restaurants. 有些年記大的人對早餐店賣的那種三合一咖啡很有忠誠度 .

17. However strange I become, I will never be as strange as a couple of the other foreign teachers in Pingtung. 不管我變得多奇怪 , 我還是沒有屏東某一兩個外師奇怪 .

18. Many Hakka areas aren't really Hakka anymore. 有些客家人的聚落已經不像客家人的地方了 .

19. Any meal that costs over 200 NT, and which is sold in a restaurant between Pingtung City and Kenting is probably not worth the money. 屏東市與墾丁之間 , 超過200元的餐點就算太貴了.

20. If I'm ever irrationally angry it's probably just the heat.  It gets HOT down here sometimes. 如果我火大不耐煩,真正的原因大概是因為天氣熱 . 這裡的天氣有時候真的很熱 .

8. Pingtung in the News 屏東的新聞 (North 北) 5

There are 29 townships, 3 municipalities and one city in Pingtung County.  It's exhausting to include news from every township, municipality.

1. Ligang Township 里港鄉

1a. Police in Pingtung have been working hard to reduce traffic fatalities in the county.  As part of this effort, officers have been stationed at busy intersections to help direct traffic flow.  Recent deployments of officers to Pingtung City, Chaozhou, Neipu, Fangliao and Ligang has resulted in a dramatic reduction in deaths throughout the county. 交通尖峰時段屏東義交路口指揮車禍少8成  即起再廣大到里港等3鄉 (1)

1a. Residents of Ligang are worried about the local water utility's plan to utilize groundwater in the area.  They are concerned about subsidence, the availability of water for agriculture, and the quality of water supplied to their homes.  The water utility is attempting to convince residents that there's nothing to worry about. 里港自來水源將抽地下水  縣府 : 免擔心

2. Gaoshu Township 高樹鄉

2a. Police officers were up late promoting traffic safety during a concert in Gaoshu.  Drunk driving is a big problem in the area. 高樹鄉中秋賞樂晚會  鄉親同歡樂里警不停歇做交安宣導

3. Sandimen Township 三地門鄉

3a. 140 drivers got speeding tickets on Highway 24 through Sandimen during the recent four-day weekend. 台24線三地門 , 霧台彎道多速限30  連假開140張超速罰單

3b. Residents of Sandimen received a temporary reprieve from having to pay the garbage collection fee.  The Sandimen Township Office cited recent covid-related economic hardship as the reason. 屏東三地門鄉紓困加碼  免收垃圾清潔規費

3c. A drunk driver managed to get his car stuck between two trees.  The result was, in some people's words, an impressive display of parking ability. 屏東三地們最強停車 !  車身卡2樹間  眾人驚 : 比賣豆腐還厲害

4. Wutai Township 霧台鄉

4a. Aside from the news regarding Highway 24 above, which also involves Wutai, no recent news.

5. Jiouru Township 九如鄉

5a. Along with "green energy" comes green energy-related crime.  A resident of Jiouru recently stole several thousand NT worth of solar panel cables from an elementary school there.  He was apprehended soon after. 穿雨衣破壞監視器  男子竊校園太陽能電纜仍落網

6. Yanpu Township 鹽埔鄉

6a. An all-ages playground was recently opened in Yanpu's Social Welfare Building. 鹽埔共融遊戲社福館開幕  親子玩翻

7. Pingtung City 屏東市

7a. The Pingtung County Government recently held a "digital life market" in the hopes of attracting young people back to the area.  The government wants to build up more industries and digital infrastructure in Pingtung. 屏東數位生活市集  知性又好玩

7b. The Shengli Star Village, an outdoor market near Pingtung Park in Pingtung City, attracted a lot of visitors during the four-day weekend. 中秋連假迎久違人潮  屏東勝利星村遊客回籠7成

7c. Several neighborhoods (districts) in Pingtung City were merged recently, and the Household Registration Office is urging residents to update their IDs and household registration documents to reflect the change. 屏東市12萬人戶籍資料異動  公所籲抽空改註身分證

8. Chang Jr Township 長治鄉

8a. No recent news out of Chang Jr.

9. Linluo Township 麟洛鄉

9a. The park across from the Linluo Train Station is featured in this article.  It was designed to reflect local Hakka culture. 屏東麟洛鄉公園有特色  結合民間信仰打造花轎遊具

10. Jhutian Township 竹田鄉

10a. No recent news out of Jhutian.

11. Neipu Township 內埔鄉

11a. A cement truck flipped over not far from the Jung Shan Freeway's Pingtung City exit.  This exit is actually in Neipu, on the opposite side of Linluo from Pingtung City.  And yes, some of those guys drive WAY too fast. 屏東縣又有水泥車翻車 !  這次換內埔

11b. A shrine dedicated to unmarried soldiers was recently moved from Jiayi to Neipu. 屏東內埔在台單身亡故榮民遷厝嘉義縣忠靈祠晉塔安厝典禮

9. Old Roads

So there I am on my bike, about to cross Highway 1 on my way to Jiadong.  It's about 7:30 in the morning, the sun is shining, and traffic is characteristically light for that time of day.

I'm waiting for the light to turn green.  It does so.  I begin crossing the intersection, knowing that I'm well within the forwardmost driver's field of view.  And then?

RRRRRRRRRAAAAARRRRRrrrrr!!!

Another car, second in line, cuts right in front of me as I'm halfway across the road.  The driver of that car is going so fast that all I see is a blur in the corner of my left eye.  I pump my brakes, almost falling down as I do so. I then get a brief glimpse of an old man behind the wheel of a rusting Toyota, looking away from me.  He hasn't even seen me, despite the fact that he was inches away from sending me to the hospital.

This, sadly, is not an isolated occurrence.  I've had a few other close calls in Pingtung.  The drivers involved are always elderly, and always looking in a direction opposite the one they should have been looking.  And what can I do in such situations?  I can only ever look to my right and to my left.  I can only hope that people driving cars can see me.

I'm reminded of a guy I saw at the Family Mart just south of the Pingnan Industrial Area.  I had just gotten off work, and was sitting on one of the outside chairs drinking a cold coffee.  I looked to my right and saw a grey-haired, hunched-over man trying to start an old scooter.  He'd walk over to the scooter and turn the key - "rrr rrr rrr" - but the engine wouldn't catch.  Then he'd go back to the front entrance, look around in a state of confusion, and then walk back to his scooter again, repeating the process.  I watched him do this five or six times before I finished my coffee, and the whole time he never said a word to anyone.  By the time I left several other people watching him, all probably wondering - as I was - whether or not they should intervene.

With Pingtung's aging population, it seems likely that many residents are getting behind the wheel of a car (or jumping on a scooter) with failing eyesight, lack of motor control or some other form of age-related impairment.  A look at various county government sites seems to bear out this conclusion.  There are, on average, twice the number of deaths relative to the number of births.  Around ten people die every month in traffic accidents.  The largest age group is 59 year olds.  The average age is 77.59.  Given that people under 18 can't (or at least shouldn't) be driving cars, you don't need to be a mathematician to get an indication of just how many older people are on the roads in this area.

Local law enforcement has been doing its best to ensure safe roads for all, but with the length and size of the county determining who should and who shouldn't be driving is an almost herculean task.  And this of course assumes that residents licensed (or unlicensed) to drive even care whether or not they should be driving.  Many people consider driving to be a right, and they don't consider their fitness to drive an issue.

There's also a difference between country and city driving.  Things like exceeding the speed limit, running red lights and parking wherever you want are endemic to rural Pingtung, even though they lead to problems when carried into more urban areas.  Of course some people like to get judgmental and say "They should all follow the traffic rules!" but really, sometimes following traffic rules too closely can get you into trouble.  Just try following the speed limit down the length of highways 1 or 17.  You'll have a large truck on your bumper in no time.

Compounding this problem is the state of the roads in Pingtung, and the question of whether some roads are safe for anyone to drive on.  There are intersections and stretches of road in this county that I actively avoid.  When driving a car in Pingtung City, I'll go out of my way to avoid intersections near the train station.  When riding a scooter in Fangliao, I get very nervous when crossing Highway 1.  When riding a bike in Xinpi, I exercise extreme caution on the Moutainside Highway.  Worst of all are the traffic islands of Chaozhou, where I'm always expecting someone's grandma to drive directly into the side of our car.

Not that I'm blaming all of the older people for being on the road.  I hope to be older myself one day.  I just hope that when we are older someone has the wisdom and wherewithal to explain to us - in words we can understand - when and why we shouldn't be driving.

10. Taiwan 101: Money and Banks

You like money, don't you?  I like money.  I don't like money as much as the things I buy with money, but I've met a couple of people who prize money above all other things.  In Taiwan, provided you're not Christian or Buddhist, you can even pray for money without feeling too guilty about it.

There are two kinds of money in Taiwan: ceremonial or "joss" money and real money.  With ceremonial money you can buy the favor (or protection) of ancestral spirits.  With real money you can buy a beer at 7-11 or pay your rent.  I suppose you could burn real money and use that to buy the favor of ancestral spirits, but that would get expensive.

Part of me would love to write about ceremonial money here.  That topic is really fun.  But no, real money will be today's topic.

The picture at the top is the type of currency you'll encounter in Taiwan.  There are the 1 NTD ("New Taiwan Dollar" or "Taiwan New Dollar" / "TWD") coins, which are about as useful as pennies in the States, there's the slightly more useful 5 NT (most of us drop the "D") coins, the 10 NT coins, the 50 NT coins and the paper currency.  100 NT will buy you a lunchbox with some change left over.  It will also buy you a draft beer in most bars.  It will buy you less than a full tank of gas for a scooter.  500 NT will buy you cheaper items of clothing, a cheaper bottle of whiskey and a meal in all but the most expensive restaurants.  1000 NT will buy you almost a full tank of gas for a newer car, a day inside an amusement park or a pair of decent (if not excellent) shoes.

At the time of writing the exchange rates are:

1 NT = 0.36 U.S. Dollars

1 NT = 0.03 Euros

1 NT = 0,03 British Pounds

1 NT = 0.05 Australian Dollars

1 NT = 0.05 Canadian Dollars

1 NT = 4.01 Japanese Yen

1 NT = 0.23 Chinese Renminbi (Yuan)

Adjust your expectations accordingly.  Needless to say, some things are cheaper in Taiwan, some are more expensive, and sometimes bargaining comes into play.  If you ask me Taipei is expensive, but then again I've lived in Taiwan for over two decades, and most of those two decades were spent in more rural areas.  Anywhere outside of Taipei is cheaper, though buying foreign products is almost never cheap, no matter where in Taiwan you are.

Of course at some point you'll need to take some of those New Taiwan Dollars (or Taiwan New Dollars) and put them into a bank.  To do so you'll need to set up an account in one of Taiwan's many banks, none of which are pleasant to deal with or pleasant to sit in for long periods of time.  Oh well, you like money, right?

In terms of selecting a bank, I'd encourage you to select one with more branches, and moreover with branches all over Taiwan.  This is for two reasons: 1) You may be working at more than one place, and having an account at a bigger bank makes getting paid easier, and 2) Foreign residents will need to engage in international banking on some level, and smaller banks don't do this well for obvious reasons.  Bank of Taiwan?  No problem.  The Taiwan Post Office?  Also not a bad choice.  The Farmer's Bank of Penghu?  Maybe not the best place to put your money.

As for actually opening an account it involves, as you'd expect, filling out and signing various forms, and also showing proper identification.  For U.S. citizens this process is even more complicated, in that we have to fill out an extra form notifying the IRS that we're opening a bank account in another country.  I highly recommend that those new to Taiwan take along an English-capable Taiwanese friend or coworker to assist them in opening a bank account.  There's no reason to get paranoid.  Between the bank's insistence on procedure, and the scrupulousness of most Taiwanese people with regard to money, you're not likely to get tricked out of your month's pay while at the bank.

Unless maybe you're from the Philippines, Thailand or Indonesia.  But that, my friends, is another story...